O2 Joggler Forum

Hi all!

For anyone interested I'm attempting this as a project, except using an android OS:
http://www.mp3car.com/show-off-your-pro ... x-5-a.html


Any help would be greatly appreciated

FRAZ

I have a feeling Android 1.2.3 might be better for stability see here http://www.jogglerwiki.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=318
I recently hooked a joggler up in the car to see if it would run Torque ,a great. Android app that talks to a OBD II adapter to log journeys, fuel consumption etc, as I was having problems getting it to work on my phone.

I had it booting from the side port off a usb stick in a usb hub ( port 4 needed to work right), I had a cheap poundland Bluetooth dongle in another port to talk to the OBD thingy.
It all worked pretty well.
Is there a reason you wanted to use ICS other than it being newer than 1.2.3?
Once the set up is all working from the side usb port it can be migrated to the internal usb, or a new usb soldered on.

Would these work for powering a car Joggler Pete? or any body with the knowledge?
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B008JUXPA0

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.vi ... 1356522012
I am thinking the less soldering the better

Going back to original specs here and what I do with POE.

Thing with the car stuff is that the 12VDC always is not always 12VDC.

Test initially by plugging in the device and measuring the 5VDC output from no start, start and running of the car to make sure it's always 5VDC.

3 Amps + 5Volts = 15 Watts.

Accordingly the Joggler Wiki saids that the maximum draw of the Joggler is some 1.24 Amps or 6.2 Watts.

I use TP-Links POE to 5VDC injectors which work with my standard POE switches just fine. These work a bit higher but the draw is a bit more with more Jogglers on one swtich.

I use a tiny motorola cigarette plug to mini USB to power my PDA phone in the car; but the draw is much less. I like it though cuz the cable is tiny.

I've been using the same model now of motorola mini usb plug now for 3 generations of phones and none have failed me yet. Same thing with the modular phone mount. (old company).

Guessing still you want to make sure that the voltage is nice and even more than anything so you do not blow that little tiny smd fuse on the Joggler motherboard. I don't really know the tolerance of that fuse.

Another thing you want to check for is that you do not get any alternator whine on the audio output of the Joggler using the 12VDC car source when running. Or put some sort of filtering in place for the sound.

I have noticed lately that my mini usb powering devices for whatever stuff (GPS and USB to ZIF boards) over extended periods of time get warm and are desoldering and falling off the boards; which is odd to me. I have not seen that with regular sized USB ports soldered on boards (IE like the Joggler). I don't think you are going to use any of the Joggler USB ports as sources for 5VDC for anything anyways eh?

Thanks for that Pete, I think this previously posted
http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/12v-universal ... tips-a92jh
Would be ok but at 20 pounds a bit pricey
The joggler would.possibly have Android booting off a small external hdd, plugged in to a usb hub plugged in to the usb port in the rear of the joggler.
Also in to the usb hub at the rear would be the original wirelesd card, and a cheap bluetooth dongle.
Would all this lot take too much power do you think?.
Not sure if it would work either

Also in to the usb hub at the rear would be the original wireless card, and a cheap Bluetooth dongle.
Would all this lot take too much power do you think?.

The original wireless card does draw a bit of power and it gets really hot. When I plug a USB SSD and the USB Wireless card to an unpowered USB hub hanging off of the inside USB port or outside one; the USB SSD doesn't boot; it just shuts off. I don't think that the USB bluetooth device uses much power at all. Those little tiny USB ones.

I tested (and use) both the USB SSD device and the USB to ZIF to SSD device. Thinking that the USB SSD draws more power than the USB to ZIF to SSD device. Over time though my USB ports on the USB to ZIF to SSD fell off (that said they were cheapo ZIF to USB cards inside of the little USB to ZIF drive cases.

You can see the mW draw of every device by itself. I forgot what the max is in mW.

Just found this blog for " George's car computer

http://projects.dbgw.co.uk/index.php?p= ... arcomputer
Nicely written up blog here , I think he abandoned the idea eventually if you look in his other projects section some interesting stuff there .
I wonder if he is on the forum here

Hawsey,

Yup; for the carpc thing its all about how you want it to look in the car or if you are modifying the HU (head end unit) to fit the Joggler.

Today there are double DIN whole car PC's that you can purchase the retrofit into the space of whatever is there. They can be based in Android or CE.

Many though are still not using the right type of screen and that could be an issue. IE: the glare from the Joggler capacitance screen could be an issue.

I am thinking that the OEM HU units in my automobiles are using translucent (?) polarized screens such that I can see them in the sun.

Personally I have made them simple such that they are very easy to navigate for music stuff.

Hi Pete , hope you are well ;
yes I noticed the joggler screen is not too good in the sun :-/ maybe there is some antiglare screen protector that could be added , the guy , George from the above blog is using an iPad in the car now i think from his blog , they are expensive tho !! Cheap android tablets would probably do for most purposes as well now .