Strange Flirc behaviour

[jim_lewis1]

I wondered whether you might try using an Arduino or similar to monitor the switching off side of things. Someone else will know whether it is possible for the Arduino to send a shutdown command to the joggler and then wait for some indication that this has occurred (eg no power on USB out of Joggler) before shutting off power to the joggler. this would avoid the need for manually doing this and the issue of sudden power loss to the joggler causing corruption.

[pete]

Yup; you don't need to add an Arduino to the mix.

A while ago played with a Pogoplug / Mimo monitor and it worked just fine. This is a smaller footprint than the Joggler and could work in your setup providing you with digital outputs and a basic touchscreen interface.

I am doing this today with an intelligent pico PSU.

As suggested earlier you shouldn't use the Joggler internal 5VDC and separate that piece out.

The intelligent PSU get's two 12VDC inputs. One that goes to the main battery and one that goes to the aux ignition on. It has a built in USB output which the computer can control. The only part that doesn't work and will not work with the Joggler is the tickle to turn on the Joggler which you can bypass. You can also add a UPS board (tiny thing) to enable a bit more shutdown time.

So connectivity just for the power on the Joggler would be:

1 - PicoPSU - two voltages
2 - USB to Joggler just utilized for shutdown

When you shut off the car; the picopsu sends a command via USB to shutdown. The joggler shuts down in a timely manner. There is also a timing circuit on the picopsu to cut the power in XX seconds no matter what such that the battery doesn't get drained.

You could utilize this with any car pc such that if you decided to swap out the Joggler it will work with another car pc.

On the USB side of things an independant carpc USB powered hub which works exactly the same as above except the USB 5VDC gets it power from the car and not the Joggler.

You can fix the Joggler USB stick corruption by using an SSD USB stick which works way better for the Joggler or the integrated PATA port with an SSD drive on it.

Car 12VDC always on plus
Car 12VDC only one with ignition

===> intelligent pico psu with USB (

input is some 11VDC to 15VDC protected

) ==> outputs 5VDC to Joggler

Joggler controls microcontroller on pico PSU via USB

As suggested too using the updated Openpeak board with a bit more stuff on it and an oversized heat sink would work better. Even better would be the telsta device which also has an oversized heatsink, mini pcie card and a battery. That said you would have to disassemble the device and just mount the LCD on the front piece of the DIN mount and mount the motherboard / heatsink right behind it. Being open like this though would allow for more stuff / connectivity to the motherboard and not an easy plug n play removal unless you removed the whole din mount or made something that would be plug n play.

[Imagewerx]

I wondered whether you might try using an Arduino or similar to monitor the switching off side of things. Someone else will know whether it is possible for the Arduino to send a shutdown command to the joggler and then wait for some indication that this has occurred (eg no power on USB out of Joggler) before shutting off power to the joggler. this would avoid the need for manually doing this and the issue of sudden power loss to the joggler causing corruption.

Thanks for the suggestion but I feel an Arduino would be wasted here.I used one in my last car because I thought it was kinda cool to tell everyone I was using an Arduino in my car,hoping I could finds lots of cool things to do with it.But because of my inability to write code and the Arduino forums being the least helpful place in the world,all I could ever get it to do was to control the headlights,which thinking about it afterwards was a lot effort with not much to show for it.There is voltage on various points inside the Joggler that is only there when it's switched on,so I could use one of these points to drive a simple transistor and relay combo that would disable the ability to remove the power feed from it until it's fully switched itself off.

[Imagewerx]

Yup; you don't need to add an Arduino to the mix.

A while ago played with a Pogoplug / Mimo monitor and it worked just fine. This is a smaller footprint than the Joggler and could work in your setup providing you with digital outputs and a basic touchscreen interface.

I am doing this today with an intelligent pico PSU.

As suggested earlier you shouldn't use the Joggler internal 5VDC and separate that piece out.

The intelligent PSU get's two 12VDC inputs. One that goes to the main battery and one that goes to the aux ignition on. It has a built in USB output which the computer can control. The only part that doesn't work and will not work with the Joggler is the tickle to turn on the Joggler which you can bypass. You can also add a UPS board (tiny thing) to enable a bit more shutdown time.

So connectivity just for the power on the Joggler would be:

1 - PicoPSU - two voltages
2 - USB to Joggler just utilized for shutdown

When you shut off the car; the picopsu sends a command via USB to shutdown. The joggler shuts down in a timely manner. There is also a timing circuit on the picopsu to cut the power in XX seconds no matter what such that the battery doesn't get drained.

You could utilize this with any car pc such that if you decided to swap out the Joggler it will work with another car pc.

On the USB side of things an independant carpc USB powered hub which works exactly the same as above except the USB 5VDC gets it power from the car and not the Joggler.

You can fix the Joggler USB stick corruption by using an SSD USB stick which works way better for the Joggler or the integrated PATA port with an SSD drive on it.

Car 12VDC always on plus
Car 12VDC only one with ignition

===> intelligent pico psu with USB (

input is some 11VDC to 15VDC protected

) ==> outputs 5VDC to Joggler

Joggler controls microcontroller on pico PSU via USB

As suggested too using the updated Openpeak board with a bit more stuff on it and an oversized heat sink would work better. Even better would be the telsta device which also has an oversized heatsink, mini pcie card and a battery. That said you would have to disassemble the device and just mount the LCD on the front piece of the DIN mount and mount the motherboard / heatsink right behind it. Being open like this though would allow for more stuff / connectivity to the motherboard and not an easy plug n play removal unless you removed the whole din mount or made something that would be plug n play.

It's not easy as just going out and buying an Openpeak motherboard when I never see any for sale.The intelligent USB power supply might be just what I'm looking for though,is this the one I need?

http://www.mini-box.com/DCDC-USB-200

[castalla]

Is your flirc issue solved?

No idea if this is relevant:

"Important: Please note that I always compile kernels for the Joggler with an 80°C thermal trip point. If you are unhappy with this, you need to add thermal.psv=70 to the grub.cfg file before booting. This is within official tolerance of the chip and to the best of my knowledge, no OpenFrame has ever been damaged by this setting."

[Imagewerx]

Is your flirc issue solved?

No idea if this is relevant:

"Important: Please note that I always compile kernels for the Joggler with an 80°C thermal trip point. If you are unhappy with this, you need to add thermal.psv=70 to the grub.cfg file before booting. This is within official tolerance of the chip and to the best of my knowledge, no OpenFrame has ever been damaged by this setting."

It MIGHT be.I'll let you know after I've used it tomorrow.

[pete]

It's not easy as just going out and buying an Openpeak motherboard when I never see any for sale.The intelligent USB power supply might be just what I'm looking for though,is this the one I need?

It was / can still be.

Here noticed for a bit there were many Openpeaks being sold as Jogglers there in the UK and here in the US.

Yup on the DCDC-USB-200, Intelligent DC-DC converter with USB interface.

Its a start. Next is an automotive powered USB hub that you need.

You can also create a network in your car with a little switch and put a hard drive on the network.

Use you imagination.

[Imagewerx]

Yeah but what's the difference when they're all listed as Openpeak/02 Jogglers?

[jim_lewis1]

I search pretty regularly on Ebay.co.uk for 'Joggler' and 'Openpeak' and i've never yet seen an Openpeak for sale.

[jim_lewis1]

With regards to using the intelligent PSU, how does this tell the Joggler to shut down gracefully? From the description it seems the unit is capable of sending an on/off pulse to motherboards that understand this signal, but how would that be implemented with the Joggler?
I thought the intelligent PSU was able to run a script which would send the shutdown command to the Joggler via USB. Is that not how it works?

[castalla]

Is your flirc issue solved?

No idea if this is relevant:

"Important: Please note that I always compile kernels for the Joggler with an 80°C thermal trip point. If you are unhappy with this, you need to add thermal.psv=70 to the grub.cfg file before booting. This is within official tolerance of the chip and to the best of my knowledge, no OpenFrame has ever been damaged by this setting."

It MIGHT be.I'll let you know after I've used it tomorrow.

I wouldn't know whether you should increase or decrease the value !!???!!!

[pete]

and i've never yet seen an Openpeak for sale.

Yup; its mostly never has any verbiage relating to Openpeak other than just O2 Joggler stuff. If they post some good pictures of it you will see that it doesn't have an O2 Joggler embossed logo on it; rather it just has an Openpeak embossed logo on it and typically will have the world famous PnPIII already preinstalled on it....geez where did that come from?

[pete]

With regards to using the intelligent PSU, how does this tell the Joggler to shut down gracefully?

From the description it seems the unit is capable of sending an on/off pulse to motherboards that understand this signal, but how would that be implemented with the Joggler?

With the USB connecting helping you. You tell the Joggler to shut down gracefully and the Intelligent PSU knows when it's off and shuts the power off the PSU. You can also just hard set the timing such that when it sees the command via the USB then the clocks starts to tick whatever many seconds you want before the power is cut. This is an issue with most car pcs; drainage of the battery stuff.

The Joggler doesn't have motherboard switch or reset pins on it such that you have to get creative with it. The multitude of connectivity pieces of the intelligence of the pico psu will help you with that piece.

The 12VDC accessory voltage going off starts the intelligent graceful shut down of the Joggler via the USB port.

In fact today its become an issue with the smart integrated blue tooth internet "do what" not knowing when to shut off is killing the batteries on many new cars. It was an issue with my integrated bluetooth on my newer bimmer that the mfg wouldn't acknowledge until they redid the firmware. Meanwhile they did replace some 3 batteries in the first year I owned the car. They blamed me for the 4th battery... My phone though was sticky and it would remain attached and functioning to the car when I took the phone into the house....IE: my sister's "new" integrated Android GPS / Bluetooth phone thing is doing the same today and the car was mfg in 2013....

I thought the intelligent PSU was able to run a script which would send the shutdown command to the Joggler via USB. Is that not how it works?

Have a look at the USB tool for programming the pico psu.

[hawsey]

Just had a look at your set up, I like it although know very little about car audio.
The Taiishan Dac looks the business and quite cheap too, thanks for sharing

[Imagewerx]

It's not easy as just going out and buying an Openpeak motherboard when I never see any for sale.The intelligent USB power supply might be just what I'm looking for though,is this the one I need?

It was / can still be.

Here noticed for a bit there were many Openpeaks being sold as Jogglers there in the UK and here in the US.

Yup on the , Intelligent DC-DC converter with USB interface.

Its a start. Next is an automotive powered USB hub that you need.

You can also create a network in your car with a little switch and put a hard drive on the network.

Use you imagination.

I've only ever seen 02 branded Jogglers for sale in the UK since I've been looking for them,which is only the last couple of months.Is this one ok for what I need as it's easier to get in the UK than the one you mentioned?

http://www.logicsupply.co.uk/power-supp ... er/m2-atx/

Also how specific is the shut down command? I can still do the full shutdown manually at the end of every day,so what I want is for it to be put into standby automatically every time I turn the ignition off rather than a full power down,is this possible with either of these units? This is purely for short stops like 5 minutes or so where I don't want to have to wait for it to do a full reboot every time,but I can just tap play to wake it up again from where it was before being put into standby.

Why do you say I need a special automotive USB hub,I now have my generic USB hub working as I need it to? I can even power it directly from which ever one of these fancy power supplies I choose.

Edit....of course that one won't work as it's not USB.

[Imagewerx]

Is your flirc issue solved?

No idea if this is relevant:

"Important: Please note that I always compile kernels for the Joggler with an 80°C thermal trip point. If you are unhappy with this, you need to add thermal.psv=70 to the grub.cfg file before booting. This is within official tolerance of the chip and to the best of my knowledge, no OpenFrame has ever been damaged by this setting."

It MIGHT be.I'll let you know after I've used it tomorrow.

I wouldn't know whether you should increase or decrease the value !!???!!!

I think it means that as standard they're set at 70 deg,but can be safely taken up to 80 deg with no chance of damaging the processor.

[Imagewerx]

Just had a look at your set up, I like it although know very little about car audio.
The Taiishan Dac looks the business and quite cheap too, thanks for sharing

Thank you and yes,for £30 each they do a respectable job of DACing.The only downside is the high noise floor,but this is only audible with the engine off and no music playing.R32 Golfs aren't the quietest cars in the world,so once on the move and playing music I can't hear the hiss any more.
I very much doubt if I was to replace them with more expensive DACs,that I'd be able to hear the difference in sound quality in a moving car,ao I think for now they'll be staying put.

[Imagewerx]

Right,I've solved it at last.Been on a nice long drive today (5 hours ish) and the Joggler and the Flirc have worked flawlessly.

It looks like the original external USB port is only good enough for plugging flash memory into,so once I'd plugged the hub in with a couple of flash drives and the Flirc (which needs power) into it,that poor little surface mount 5 volt regulator couldn't cope any more.

Now it's got a healthy big current supply,it boots up quicker (maybe only about 5 or 10 seconds quicker),it boots up reliably now (before it could be as little as 1 time in 5 that was a successful boot),I don't get the garbled file names any more and the Flirc works exactly as it's meant to.

[pete]

I've only ever seen 02 branded Jogglers for sale in the UK since I've been looking for them,which is only the last couple of months.Is this one ok for what I need as it's easier to get in the UK than the one you mentioned?

Personally and externally was it was just the embossed Openpeak logo. I thought it was the same device until I took it apart and saw different stuff on the motherboard. That said it did work fine with PnPIII and the O2 Joggler updated firmware.

I don't really know these days if they are on Ebay as I have not looked.

[Imagewerx]

Just five for sale on our eBay at the moment....

http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from= ... r&_sacat=0

And one on Gumtree last time I looked,so really not a lot of choice.But as this one seems to be working ok now,I'm sticking with it but would like another fully working one to play with when I need to.

So how about my question earlier,can the intelligent power supply be set to turn it off fully (i.e. power off) or just to put it into standby on ignition off?