Kitchen Door Joggler
Posted: Wed Jan 16, 2013 5:08 pm
I've been promising to write this up properly for ages, but this is just a quick overview of what I did with one of my Jogglers so it would fit in with the kitchen, seeing as somebody sent me an email to ask. I was refitting the kitchen and (naturally) decided the Joggler would take the place of the radio. I opted for one of the cupboard doors. The base units and doors are all from Ikea (very good quality units and easy to get spare parts for) so I bought a spare door, traced around the rear of a Joggler screen and cut a hole in the door. The finished result is this:
I had originally intended to fit the screen flush, but I just don't have the tools to make a neat enough job. Luckily the recess of the door matches up quite nicely with the depth of the Joggler screen and thankfully the cutout for the light sensor is on the back case and not the screen, otherwise there'd have been a hole in the top! As you can see on the first pic, there's a Topping TP30 which is screwed to the underside of the same cabinet, with hidden cables running off to a couple of little speakers either side of the fridge.
On the other side of the door I made two little mounts out of some spare walnut and a stainless steel rear panel out of a section of unused cooker hood.
The wiring was put through cable braid and attached to the inside of the cupboard with these little metal cable tidies. The excess cable is to reduce strain as the door opens and closes.
The top mount is held on with three magnets embedded into the door; remove it and the back panel just pulls out of the groove in the lower mount. The logic board is rotated 90 degrees and backwards to the layout in the Joggler itself, just because it made the cabling neater. It has the added bonus that all of the connections are easier to get to. Unfortunately this meant that the connections for the ethernet and power are pointing in towards the board... not that it really matters.
This one's just a slightly closer up pic of the board. You can just about make out the copious amounts of glue holding the screen onto the door and the kapton tape which I'm using to keep dust out of the screen. The TP30 is connected to what would normally be the external USB socket. SqueezePlay OS is running from a USB stick on an extension cable - it just tucks in behind the screen. Oh, and I put some proper heat sinks on the GPU (the black heat sink) and CPU (little blue heat sink).
The little interface board is just hot-glued to the back of the door and the audio cables have been cut back as I'm not using them.
This just shows the magnets in the top mount. They're little neodymium ones, so they're super strong.
That's about it - I do have some better pictures of installing the screen to the door somewhere, but I'll write something on my site one day. It's taken me long enough to post this, because this setup has been installed for about two years now!
I had originally intended to fit the screen flush, but I just don't have the tools to make a neat enough job. Luckily the recess of the door matches up quite nicely with the depth of the Joggler screen and thankfully the cutout for the light sensor is on the back case and not the screen, otherwise there'd have been a hole in the top! As you can see on the first pic, there's a Topping TP30 which is screwed to the underside of the same cabinet, with hidden cables running off to a couple of little speakers either side of the fridge.
On the other side of the door I made two little mounts out of some spare walnut and a stainless steel rear panel out of a section of unused cooker hood.
The wiring was put through cable braid and attached to the inside of the cupboard with these little metal cable tidies. The excess cable is to reduce strain as the door opens and closes.
The top mount is held on with three magnets embedded into the door; remove it and the back panel just pulls out of the groove in the lower mount. The logic board is rotated 90 degrees and backwards to the layout in the Joggler itself, just because it made the cabling neater. It has the added bonus that all of the connections are easier to get to. Unfortunately this meant that the connections for the ethernet and power are pointing in towards the board... not that it really matters.
This one's just a slightly closer up pic of the board. You can just about make out the copious amounts of glue holding the screen onto the door and the kapton tape which I'm using to keep dust out of the screen. The TP30 is connected to what would normally be the external USB socket. SqueezePlay OS is running from a USB stick on an extension cable - it just tucks in behind the screen. Oh, and I put some proper heat sinks on the GPU (the black heat sink) and CPU (little blue heat sink).
The little interface board is just hot-glued to the back of the door and the audio cables have been cut back as I'm not using them.
This just shows the magnets in the top mount. They're little neodymium ones, so they're super strong.
That's about it - I do have some better pictures of installing the screen to the door somewhere, but I'll write something on my site one day. It's taken me long enough to post this, because this setup has been installed for about two years now!